Getting Coffee At Canova In Piazza Del Popolo Is A Must

When you are up early in Rome and need an espresso, if you are near Piazza del Popolo, then Canova is a great restaurant to visit for a quick breakfast.

A History Of Canova

Certainly young by Roman standards, Canova opened in the fifties and was named after Neoclassical sculptor, Antonio Canova, whose studio was just down the road. Italian director Federico Fellini lived nearby and frequented the establishment.

Today, I read how if you are a Roman, then you need to pick a favorite caffè in Piazza del Popolo, either Canova or Rosati. As a resident, I do have a favorite, but as a tourist visiting the piazza, you really don’t need to worry about it.

My Experience Having Coffee At Canova

I was less intimidated entering this restaurant than I was when I previously entered Rosati. This was because I brought backup this time, and there weren’t a bunch of workers standing around giving me the feeling I was doing something wrong. We walked in and bellied right up to the bar.

This is one of the bars that requires you to pay first at the cashier (Cassa) and then present your receipt to the barista. We did it wrong and ordered at the bar, he politely took the order and then directed us to the Cassa.

It’s a smaller bar, but we easily found enough space to enjoy a cappuccino and cornetto. The Coffee, much to my happiness, was from Caffè Trombetta, which is a local Roman roast, and a favorite of mine. The cappuccino was delicious and equally important was the cornetto was fresh and flakey. I intentionally get the same meal when I visit these bars, but they do offer quite a few other delicious looking pastries and desserts.

One thing I found entertaining was the number of dogs brought in by their owners. It didn’t dawn on me immediately, but I suspect this is because of how many dog walkers are in the piazza and the nearby Borghese Gardens. We were standing shoulder-to-shoulder with around 6 or 7 other customers and 3 dogs.

Why Is Piazza Del Popolo Famous?

Piazza del Popolo (Rome), which translates to The People’s Plaza, is an imposing open space at the junction of the three main streets of the historic center of Rome: via del Babuino, via del Corso and via di Ripetta. Here is a map of the location:

This lively area of the city is a “Must See” because of the high-end and luxury fashion stores along Via del Corso, Via dei Condotti and the other side streets between the Spanish Steps in Piazza di Spagna, Rome, and Piazza del Popolo.

The piazza is within the Aurelian Walls and is at the northern gate. The gate was called Porta Flaminia during the time of ancient Rome, but today is known as Porta del Popolo.

Is Piazza Del Popolo Worth Seeing?

Piazza del Popolo is Definitely worth seeing. In the center of the piazza is the Fontana dei Leoni (Fountain of the Lions) which has round travertine basins and is dominated by the Egyptian-style white marble lions that surround a real Egyptian obelisk. The Flaminio Obelisk (Obelisco Flaminio) is another Egyptian obelisk that was resurrected by Pope Sixtus V which, like the Lateran Obelisk, was dug up in Circus Maximus during an excavation and relocated to a more prominent location.

On the eastern side of the piazza, is the Fontana della Dea Roma (fountain of the Goddess Roma), adorned with a large sculptural group. A statue of the armed goddess is flanked by two statues depicting the rivers Tiber and Aniene, and the she-wolf nursing the twins at its foot. Behind is the terrace of Pincio, a wonderful urban walk from which you can see a sweeping view of the piazza and enjoy spectacular sunsets.

On the opposite (western) side of the piazza is a sculptural group adorning the Fontana del Nettuno (fountain of Neptune). It is a statue of Neptune with the trident in his right hand, at whose feet are placed two tritons with dolphins. The sculpture is above a large travertine semicircular basin above which a shell valve collects the water poured from a small basin at the top.

Is Piazza Del Popolo Free To Visit?

Yes, Piazza del Popolo is free to visit. It is at the confluence of three avenues that make up what is known as the Trident. It borders Borghese Gardens and contains one of the northern gates of the Aurelian Walls of ancient Rome.

How To Reach Canova

Piazza del Popolo, which is the home to Canova, can be reached in a number of ways. It depends on how big a rush you are in and where you are starting from. If you are in the Borghese Gardens, you just need to walk to La Terrazza del Pincio and walk down the stairs to the piazza. When you look at the Trident, Canova is on your left.

If you are in a hurry, you can take the Metro A to the Flaminio stop and enter through the Porta del Popolo. Again, the restaurant is on your left. Finally, and my favorite way, is to walk from Piazza Venezia down the popular Via del Corso, which ends at the piazza. From this direction, Canova is on your right where Via del Babuino meets the piazza.

How Much Is A Cup Of Coffee At Canova?

There are definitely two experiences at Canova which are differentiated by where you enjoy the breakfast. If you eat at the bar inside, then the prices are quite reasonable. Our Cappuccino cost €1.60 and our Cornetto was a reasonable €1.70. While this might be slightly higher than our local bar, you need to factor in the location. 

If you choose to eat at the tables overlooking the piazza, the prices are quite different. A Cappuccino will run you €8 and a cornetto will cost €5. There will also be an additional 17% service charge added to your bill. 

It is important to remember that this is quite common in places that are popular with tourists. You need to understand that the more than €15 that you spend sitting outside is only partially for the food. It is really for the amazing views and ambiance. That seems worth €15 to me, but to each their own.

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